Before we begin, assuming your printer is working correctly, I would recommend buying a second control board identical to the one inside your printer, so if things go south, you can always fall back to the original board. My printer came with a GT 2560 Rev A board, (without a bootloader, but more on this later), so I got a second one off amazon, including a full graphics display for around 40 bucks. Luckily the board received came with a proper bootloader.
Going forward, I’ll detail the process I used to improve my printer. This doesn’t imply that it’s the sole or the best approach to take. Rigorously following these steps doesn’t rule out the chance of harm to your control board or the printer itself. If you’re unsure, it’s better to stop and carry out comprehensive research rather than making assumptions.
As we progress, I’ll walk you through the steps I followed to improve my printer’s performance. However, this should not be construed as the sole or most superior method available. Following these steps to the letter does not guarantee that you won’t potentially damage your control board or the printer itself. If you find yourself unsure at any point, it’s better to put a pause and conduct comprehensive research rather than making hasty assumptions.
Proceeding further, I will detail the steps I took to enhance my printer. However, this doesn’t suggest that this is the sole or superior method; strictly adhering to these steps doesn’t guarantee success and could even harm your control board or printer. Should any uncertainties arise, take the time to conduct thorough research rather than making assumptions.
If you selected “show verbose output during compilation”, the bottom part of the screen should start filling up with information the compiler is giving us. After a while, if all goes well you should be able to see the message “Compiling core …” and a bit later “Linking everything together…“. Another couple of messages from the linker and we are done :). You have successfully compiled the marlin firmware.
